A properly installed set of composite kneecups in your C1 will get you felling 'at one' with your boat in no time. Kneecups can be held in place with shaped foam, but installation using epoxy resin and a compatible composite cloth is recommended for best performance - see our new installation guide below.
Since everyone's knees are knobbly in different places, we suggest that you try before you buy! Available in 2 sizes - skinny and standard.
It is worth taking a bit of time to install your kneecups to give the best fit. Just follow this step-by-step guide.
1. Install all the rest of your outfitting - pad your seat for the right trim, put in straps, footpads and ankle blocks if needed.
2. Get in your boat with the kneecups loose in the boat, do up your straps, push your knees into the cups, and try to sit in your preferred position. Try to estimate/measure the size of the spaces between the kneecups and the top, bottom and sides of your boat.
3. Remove the kneecups from your boat. Using the estimates, start glueing pieces of shaped foam onto the kneecups to pack out the spaces. Aim for quite a large contact area between the foam and the boat.If possible, try to put a layer of thin hard foam under the kneecups where they touch the hull to reduce wear spots.
4. Put the kneecups back into your boat loose, get in, do up the straps and check for a good fit. With a marker pen, mark the inside of the boat where the foam contacts it.
5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 until you are happy with the placement of the kneecups and the foam holds the kneecups securely in position. The diagrams on the right show a right kneecup (outlined in red) with foam blocks (outlined in white) securing it into a Sith. Your foam blocks might well be in different positions, but should support the kneecup from all sides. Note that not all foam blocks are shown in both diagrams.
6. Using the marks from step 4, glue all the foam supports to the inside fo the boat.
7. Paddle your boat! You need to be in your boat for at least half an hour, preferably on some easy moving water, to make sure that your kneecups are really in the right place.
8. If you need to do any modifications, you can either cut off all the foam and start again, or cut your foam pieces and add or remove thin layers - just like shimming a doorframe.
9. If the kneecups are secure enough for you as they are, then your boat is ready to go.
10. For added stiffness, the kneecups can be attached to the boat using epoxy resin (we recomment West system resins) and a suitable cloth (layers of woven glass and kevlar work well). If you are going to do this, round off all the corners of the foam blocks so that the fabric will lay over the foam neatly. Key all surfaces with coarse sandpaper and remove all dust, grease and moisture thoroughly.
11. Cut all your materials and get everything ready for resining. You will be covering all the easily accessible foam blocks in at least 3 layers of material, and then peelply if available. The material should extend a few centimetres onto the kneecups and the inside of the boat. Some examples are shown in the images below.
12. Put latex/ntrile gloves on! You can wet out the pieces of material with mixed epoxy on a piece of wood or cardboard before putting them onto the foam. Try to get the material smooth against the foam, boat and kneecups. Any airbubbles under the fabric will weaken the joint. A torch, flashlight or inspection light will be useful.
13. Leave the epoxy to set and cure; make sure that temperature and humidity levels are sufficient for the epoxy that you are using. Remove peelply if you used it, and trim/sand any rough edges smooth.
14. Paddle and enjoy!
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